Cruise Control

We docked in the port of San Antonio, Chile which is the port for Santiago, the nation's capital city.
Instead of viewing either of these cities, I took a tour to Valparaiso about an hour and a half drive away.

Veronica and Bernardo Take Good Care of Us

It was an excellent choice!
Veronica loaded five of us in a Mercedes van:
Anna - from Russia who is the violinist on the Zaandam for this cruise
Bobbi - from Corondo, California who is traveling with her husband but they take different tours based on interest
Art and Sandy - from the SF, CA area

The Only Level Area in Valparaiso

Veronica provided excellent commentary as we drove over hills and through valleys to Valparaiso where we visited the studios of three artists.

The City of Steep Hills

View from the Hillside

Something on Every Flat Space

Left Side of Same Hostal

Former Home Turned Art Museum

Splendid Mansions Repurposed

Valparaiso is a city of hills. Throughout the hills, seven ascensors (funiculars) are located to relieve the walking.

Seven of These in the City

Learn the Locations of the Ascensors

Valparaiso Home of the Artists

The first stop was at the studio of Alvaro Miranda. He is a young instructor who lives in his studio on the side of a steep hill.
He is an artist, a sculptor, and an inventor.

Alvaro Shows Us an Illuminated Etching

One of Alvaro's Workbenches

Alvaro Also Works with Oil on Canvas

Alvaro Shows Us His Performing Drum

Toothpicks That Undulate

A Guitar That Strums Itself

I was delighted by his work and bought a souvenir for a friend who loves Valparaiso.

Light Cart to Demonstrate Postales de Luz

Adios Alvaro

As soon as we walked away, the trash truck arrived.

Now the Truck for Bursar Arrives

Next stop was the 19th century home and studio of Gonzolo IlAbaca.

Veronica at IlAbaca's Gate

WOW!
Every wall in every room was filled with his paintings. Most were his private collections, but he would sell others for around $500 USD. I bought a booklet "El ultimo dia del ano" for $15.

One Small Wall

Small Wall II

IlAbaca Shows the Original and the Colorful

An Early Work Not For Sale

Another Early Work Not for Sale

Everything's Art in an Artist's Home

He Carries This Paint Box with Him

From His Time in Mexico

Ilbaca paints with oil on canvas. Both of his parents were artists and all have been successful enough to support their lives on their work.
He had spent three years painting only one woman. I asked about her and Veronica translated, "She took a job and moved to Sweden."

All Three Artists Were Happy to Spend Lots of Time with Us

IlAbaca Speaks Veronica Interprets

Come Now Parrot Wants to Talk to Us

The third artist is a Frenchman who fell in love with Chile and lives in a house perched high on the hill in Valparaiso.

Bobbi and Anna Take Photos from Loro's Garden

View of the Harbor from Loro's Garden

Valparaiso View from the Patio

Loro (Parrot) Tells Us About His Life and Work

He predominantly etches in linoleum and makes posters and murals.

Sandy Helps Unfurl an Original Stamped from the Linoleum Pieces

He Always Does Neighborhood Scenes

Nipsey Cured Artist's Block

I purchased some postcards that reminded me of Nipsey. He told me had a block for three weeks and couldn't produce anything. One day, he saw this cat drinking and the block was released and he made several etchings of him. The block was gone.

A newly remodeled ascenseur was located near Coiron's studio. He had been commissioned to do a mural (I think he also has one in a government building). He walked with us to ride down and show us the work.

So Excited to See Him in Front of His Ascensor Mural

Apparently, his name and photo are on one of the tourist maps with this work. People were so excited to see him and take his picture. He has quite memorable eyebrows so is easily recognizable - particularly with his ginger complexion in this SA nation!

Recognized from the Tourist Map

We ended our time in Valparaiso at the Brighton Hotel for a nice lunch and performer. It was an even numbered day, but I enjoyed the Pisco sour and wine included with my lunch.

The Brighton Hotel

An Excellent Lunchtime Performer

A Nice Spor for Lunch and a Pisco Sour

8 AM in Coquimbo Port

I had expected Coquimbo to be a sleepy little coastal village that would remind me of Newfoundland.
Surprise.

Coquimbo Claim to Fame

I decided to just walk about 2 miles to the central plaza instead of taking a tour.

Plenty of Startling Murals and Graffiti

I Jumped When I Saw This Guy

Plenty of Highrise Construction

A Very Modest Church

Plenty of Street Construction

I Don't Know What The Show Is

Pirate Performance for Tourists That We Didn't See

The best site was the fish market that was almost half a mile long.

So Much Wonderful Fresh Fish

Ceviche Prep

Zaandam Not Allowed to Buy Fresh Fish

Fresh Veggies for the Fresh Fish

I had spent all my Chilean pesos and didn't want to go to the expense of getting $10 USD equivalent in pesos so that I could sit at one of the little rusty tables in the fish market and eat fresh fish.
We had fish on the menu for dinner. I knew it was frozen. I ate Beef Wellington instead.

I'm Spending the Day on THIS

I have not held a fly rod for 15 years. I have not cast a spinning rod since Brendan was in high school. (He turned 49 last month!)
But, I spent $350 to spend a day fishing on the Maullin River that flows an hour from the town of Puerto Monnt, Chile.
My inexperience did not prepare me for the fact that I would be perched on one of these little seats for several hours to travel 10 kilometers.

The Men Test the Gear

I assumed it would be a small group, There were two guides to paddle the floats and manage our equipment, three men from the States, and me.

Juan Worked Real Hard for Me

Two of the men talked all the way from the ship to the river about their fly fishing expeditions for the last 40 years.
Much to their relief, Mike said he would share a float with me.

Mike Catches a Big Brown

Although, he kept casting for the entre 10 K, this was his entire catch.

No Animals, A Few Birds, Four Fishermen, Two Guides

.

Juan did not speak much English. We communicated like this:

"Primero...Secondo....Cast," Juan said repeatedly as I tried to remember the steps of casting. I decided to use the spinning rod because I could not get my hands and brain to follow the steps of successful fly casting and could barely remember how to flip the spinning reel.
"Down! Down!" he called out when I reeled in with the tip of my rod pointed skyward.

"Paula, Technique!" he shouted each time he wanted to take over my rod and show me how to be more successful.

Juan Kept Busy

There was a great deal of merriment.
I was happy to sit on my little perch and watch as we floated through the trees.
"Juan, Paula is happy and will rest," I would let him know.

Serene

They Eat the Stems

I Was Happy Just Sitting and Floating

Both Juan and Mike were excited over my fishing success... first a rainbow and an hour later a brown!

Paula Catches a Rainbow

Paula Catches a Brown

Now I'm Really Happy

This was all catch and release. Even if it had not been, our catches were not big enough to keep. One of our co-fishers caught one and the other man six - we were not told the length. I think they wanted to pretend they were whoppers. I don't think there are many whoppers in this river.

Ah, but it was a good day!

This is my first trip on the .Zaandam.
I have sailed across the Atlantic twice. This trip is longer with, of course, many more stops!

Stateroom 1819

Fortunately, every midnight they change the floor mat in the 16 elevators.

When You Are Retired Every Day Is Saturday

The first day or so, one wanders around trying to find how to get to to where you want to be and then how to find your way back to your stateroom.

There are plenty of amenities. I will show just a few in this posting. Activities are planned all day include lectures, movies, America’s Test Kitchen demos, Trivia, casino, basketball, etc.

This Pool Area Has a Retractable Roof

The Crow's Nest Is a Fine Place to Relax or Be Festive

Rather Garish But I Like This Lounge

They Show Good Movies in a Lousy Theater

All Us Old Folks Poolside

I have no idea when it started, but every river and ocean cruise line places intricately folded towels on your bed.

One of My Favorites

A Penguin After We Visited the Falkland Islands

These are generally removed when they make up your stateroom the next day, but they have left me my monkey hanging on my wall sconce as I used him as a place to hang my earplugs.

I generally start the day at 5:30 for coffee in the Lido, then go to the fitness center, and back to the Lido for breakfast around 7. I like to get out of there before 8 when most the others arrive.

FitnessCenter

I'm The Only One At 5 AM

8 Is Not Too Crowded

Perhaps I will take more pictures for later postings.

Some folks like the larger ships with skating rinks, climbing walls, more restaurants. But I hated that kind of ship and am happy with fewer than 1500 passengers and almost as many crew!

This the southern-most town on the mainland of any continent in the world.

Dominique Leads the Way

I took a walking tour. There are several legends about statues to rub, wishes to make, and drinks to drink that will assure you have good fortune and return to Port Arendes in the future. I didn’t do any of them; I really don’t care to come back.

Where's Denver

Two-Tailed Mermaid Where Atlantic and Pacific Meet

Magellan first stopped here almost 500 years ago. The two-tailed mermaid signifies the point where the Atlantic and Pacific meet.

At some point, this was a penal colony. Then the government thought the land could be put to better use and encouraged immigration. Unfortunately, I don’t remember if the government in control at the time was Chili or some other European colonizer. Today the highest percentage of residents are Croatian immigrants.
This is a wind-swept rather dreary town of 125,000 residents. The area was previously populated by nomadic indigenous tribes until those European immigrants killed them all through disease, trading alcohol, and the final blow – shooting them.

Commemorating the Shepherds

Actual Shepherd Was Model

During the last half of the 19th century, sheep were introduced. The indigenous folk did not understand property rights and frequently walked into settlement homes and took what they wanted. Fences were an oddity that meant nothing to them. As was the American bison to Native Americans, the guanaco (similar to a llama or alpaca), was the mainstay for survival. All these sheep lying around on the hillsides were certainly easier to catch than a swift guanaco. A bounty was placed on these nomads and all one had to do was show the ears of the slain to be paid. Bounty hunters were known to wear necklaces of ears.

RosaThe Last Fullblood Indigenous in the Area

Rosa, the last full blood of this band of natives, died in 1920. There was a booklet for sale, but it was only in Spanish.

We walked to the plaza.

Mounted Police Let Sleeping Dogs Lie

Well This Was Interesting

We walked a long way through rather dreary neighborhoods.

Six Years Ago This Flooded

This Is What We Walked to See

The New Knee Made It All the Way

We enjoyed a wonderful treat in a restaurant in the former home of Sarah Braun.

Punta Arenas - At One Time a Town of Wealth

The Winter Garden

The Very Special Surprise

Sarah was a Russian immigrant who married a wealthy Portuguese and was widowed young. She donated the land for the cemetery, which is rated as being the 6th most beautiful cemetery in the world. Unfortunately, my tour did not visit here. I was disappointed, but at the end of the tour I was ready to return to the hot tub on the ship.

All I Saw of the 6th Most Beautiful Cemetery in the World

I am glad that I am sailing through these historic and geographically significant waters, but I can miss a cemetery or two.